The Rover in Surry Hills Reveals the Final Stage of Its Reinvigoration: A British-Inspired Seafood Bistro Upstairs
Photos courtesy of Yusuke Oba
“Our approach to cooking the seafood is different to most Aussie venues,” says its co-owner. “There’s no such thing as sunshine-filled barbeques in England, it’s bloody freezing.” To that end, expect local seafood like prawns and yabbies, gently poached and served with wakame mayo and hot butter sauce, and eel pate on a glazed crumpet.
After a fully fledged refurb of The Rover in Surry Hills earlier this year, owner Liquid & Larder (Bistecca, The Gidley) today unveils the final stage of the Surry Hills bar’s revamp: a British seafood-inspired bistro on its second floor.
“We’re excited to add another layer to this little pocket of Surry Hills, further contributing to the neighbourhood vibe and charm of the area,” co-owner James Bradey tells Broadsheet.
In a polished but relaxed environment the restaurant serves a seafood-driven menu inspired by the casual bars and restaurants of East London.
“I went fishing all the time as a kid, so I love seafood. We’re channelling … London charm with this refurb,” says Bradey. “Our approach to cooking the seafood is different to most Aussie venues – there’s no such thing as sunshine-filled barbeque’s in England, it’s bloody freezing.”
British-born executive chef Pip Pratt has drawn on his childhood to create a menu of local seafood, cooked in a softer style – more poached than barbequed or fried – with thicker, decadent sauces and buttery emulsions that complement the produce. A rotation of oysters from the east coast’s top estuaries served with a champagne mignonette is an easygoing highlight, as are fresh crustaceans that might include scampi, yabby and jumbo prawns, gently poached and served cold with wakame mayo and hot butter sauce.
The East London element comes through in the eel pate served on a glazed crumpet with horseradish jelly; eels were long a cheap and easy staple food in the English capital. And even the after-dinner cheese selection is English: there’s a cheddar from London cheese seller Neal’s Yard Dairy, as well as a Shropshire Blue, a classic from the island.
Liquid & Larder group sommelier Kyle Poole’s wine list is designed to uplift the seafood, with lighter, grower-oriented drops made with minimal intervention decking out most of the list. An artisanal, bone-dry sherry from Spain is recommended with the oysters, as are seasonal cocktails like the Estuary Martini: Never Never oyster shell gin, vermouth, sherry and champagne mignonette.The cocktails are aperitif style with a heavy citrus backbone, adorned with edible garnishes from the terrace garden. An oyster shell martini (made with Never Never Oyster Shell Gin) is a crowd favourite, served with an accompanying freshly shucked oyster.
The decor is lighter and brighter than the moody setting downstairs, with exposed-brick walls and large sash windows that let in the natural light, perfect for long summer lunches.
Read the full story here.
